A Vintage Americana Obsessive Reveals His 7 Most-Worn Grails

Like many kids growing up in Spain in the ’80s and ’90s, Manuel Cozar was drawn to the allure of Americana, from Clint Eastwood westerns to Ralph Lauren ads. In the early 2000s, when he first traveled to New York City, Cozar’s passion turned the corner into obsession. “It was like stepping into a movie,” Cozar recalls of his first visit to NYC’s Ralph Lauren flagship store. “From that moment, I dedicated myself to studying American vintage.”

Over the next two decades, with the help of some of the world’s most well-connected vintage dealers, Cozar has become a top-tier collector of all things ruggedly American, from Aloha shirts and Navajo jewellery to racing jackets and varsity sweaters. Cozar is protective of his sources and won’t divulge much about where he found his favorite pieces, but he nonetheless agreed to share a few of his summer go-tos, along with the stories behind them.

USN Chambray Shirt

“It’s more than a shirt; it’s a piece of history,” Cozar says of this faded work shirt worn by a US Navy sailor, noting the unusual flap-pocket design that was discontinued in 1942. “It was worn by a warship gunner, and its rare flap pockets mark an era of wartime simplicity,” he explains.

Manuel Cozar

1970s Squared Pocket T-Shirt

Cozar’s collection is deep on vintage tees, but he’s got a particular soft spot for the likes of this plain blue specimen that’s been washed to perfection and patched with a rectangle of antique cloth. “Nothing compares to ‘70s Fruit of the Looms,” he says. “It’s not easy to find a worn shirt without too many rips or deformations, but the special thing about this shirt is the repair with calico fabric from the 1800s.”