Amiri Spring 2026 Menswear Collection
Mike Amiri brings a big social situation to Paris, a sense of place and of people gathering to hang out and luxuriate in a certain kind of louche, laid-back, old-school LA peacockery. This season, his scenography spoke, first of all, of the scale of his commercial success. An installation of a babbling fountain surrounded by pergolas and trellises evoked the gardens of his imagined Hotel Amiri, a place where the models were cast as a glamorous bunch of characters moseying around the property the morning after the night before.
The Amiri proposition has been circulating around a vague notion of 1970s playboys and music business legends for the past couple of seasons, and clearly it’s paying off. He was describing that sweet spot backstage. “In a lot of ways, I feel like menswear has that kind of struggle where people want to dress up, but they don’t want to be too up, you know. They want to be refined, but they don’t want to blend in.”
The key to this season’s theme was the work of the artist Wes Lang, who holed up at the Chateau Marmont to produce sketches on the hotel stationery. “It gave me this thought of this artist living in the hotel, and what his day-to-day is.” The first model had a tassel, like one belonging to an old-fashioned hotel room key stuck into the button-hole of his lightweight, slightly drapey beige pinstripe three-piece suit. Beneath the cutaway waistcoat was an olive satin shirt and a green polkadot tie.
It is a total look, and an unapologetic one, uninterrupted by any tendency to be diluted by athleisure or street wear. Instead, Amiri took the inspiration from Lang’s hotel sojourn to step up the decorativeness in embroideries reminiscent of wallpaper, curtain, and upholstery patterns, and jacquards of birds and flowers. The sense of a certain kind of moneyed, cinematic LA dandyism played through the pajamas, bathrobe coats, and elaborations on the smoking jacket—very much on trend with the season.
Even when Amiri is less-dressy, his idea for knitwear alternatives is to amp up polo shirts and argyle golf sweaters with sparkle. “I always like the idea of vintage, but vintage that seems special,” he said. Where his men’s is succeeding, he’s now extending his offering to women. In this case, the reference seemed less 1970s than ’90s, meaning a clutch of skimpy lingerie dresses and bias-cut goddess gowns. He’s got a way to go to carve out a distinct offer for women, but the one he’s owning for men is a club whose membership numbers are climbing season on season.
