An Exclusive Look at Dr. Martens 65th-Anniversary 1461 Oxfords

The phrase “never goes out of style” has perhaps fallen victim to semantic satiation, that phenomenon of when something gets repeated so many times that it no longer registers as having meaning. But not in all instances, though—it still very much applies to the Dr. Martens 1461. The British footwear brand’s leather oxford has long been a staple of fashion’s counterculture, sported by everyone from angsty high schoolers to unconventional superstars like Tyler, the Creator. This year the shoe is celebrating a cool 65 years in production and it’s basically never lost its edge. When it comes to Docs, there have always been fashion-forward weirdos who know what’s what. The result is a longevity few brands ever find with any single piece in their line. To celebrate the shoe’s anniversary, Dr. Martens is dropping a pair of special 1461s fit for the occasion.

The limited-edition pairs will drop tomorrow, April 1, the same date the shoe first debuted back in 1961. This run was produced by hand at the brand’s legendary Cobb Lane factory in Northamptonshire, England, on the same line the original 1461s were produced on way back when. (The brand still runs its Made in England collection out of this factory, using similar manual techniques that the brand was built on when it first opened its doors.)

The commemorative 1461s are crafted from leather prepared in Leeds-based tannery C.F. Stead, in a sepia-gray tone that will stand out amongst your recovered-mall-goth friends’ all-black pairs. The color change was not just an aesthetic call, though–according to Ramona Reidzewski, head of the brand’s archive, the hue has a place in the history of Dr. Martens. “The design team [drew] inspiration from the original Cobb’s Lane factory floor during a period of transition, on the cusp of electrification,” Reidzewski explained in an email. “Black-and-white imagery inspired the direction, with the sepia tone deliberately chosen for the color and character it has on the leather.” The brand achieved the unique shade through treating the leather with natural oils and waxes, with the intention that this leather would develop a deeper patina over time. The shoe’s upper construction is finished off with antique gold eyelets and waxed laces.

Further down the anniversary shoe is the sturdy sole anyone who’s ever laced up a pair of Docs knows might take a minute (okay, two minutes) to break in. As usual, the soles are still crafted from a sturdy Goodyear welt, cut with a grooving pattern familiar to the 1461’s construction. For the finishing touch, as with all pairs of Docs, the shoe features a double-stitched welt finish in yellow. On both counts, another well-trodden adage applies: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.