Bluemarble Spring 2026 Menswear Collection
For spring, Anthony Alvarez Graff suspended Bluemarble between sea and mountain, an inspiration derived specifically from the cable car—the only one of its kind in the South of France—that links the port city of Toulon to the summit of Mont Faron.
Backstage, as models formed a line, and Tina Knowles slipped through on her way to the front row—her grandson Julez was walking his third show for the brand—Alvarez Graff explained that the reference was not some kind of metaphor for hanging over a void: As someone who was born in the US but raised in France, the idea is more about bridging two worlds.
“My mood for this collection was to represent two opposite points that are held together by one single thread,” he said. “That thread is both fragile and strong, and it represents the link—the tension—between those two forces and creates a space of passage and dialogue.” Taking a beat, he added, “and also that feeling of seeing the horizon.”
On the runway, the dialogue of “in-betweens” brought together multiple threads. Among them was the film Walk on Clouds, by the artist and adventurer Abraham Poincheval, who harnessed himself beneath a hot air balloon and filmed himself playing the harmonica amid the clouds. “That vision of the horizon, where things seem closer than they look, was a creative metaphor for me: It’s like opposite worlds join together,” Alvarez Graff offered. “We often describe this brand as beyond boundaries.”
Another was panoramic images from the ascent and descent in that cable car, now transposed digitally onto trouser legs. Nature played a role in other ways too, in terms of palette, fauna (a tiger motif); and flora, in the form of a sizable thistle—a plant that thrives in harsh terrain—rendered in a very pretty embroidered crystal motif on a fleece and trousers.
By contrast with past outings, this collection felt tamer and more smart-casual commercial, not least because the brand has introduced its first-ever logo, with a stylized M and B. Statement pieces included an emblematic “Mother” and bird motif rendered discreetly on the back of a tobacco leather Harrington jacket; brown wool trousers with an organza side stripe bound by cloudlike metallic stitching; and boxy cotton shirts bisected by wide floral friezes. Outerwear looked strong, notably a long olive-green slicker with a removable camouflage lining, and a red jersey Velcro vest dipped in latex.
Like most of his peers, Alvarez Graff is dabbling here and there in one-of-a-kind so-called “couture” pieces. Today, he revisited last season’s travel theme by sprinkling kitschy little souvenir pins over long tunics. Never mind the tenuous line between that and couture—for Bluemarble’s crowd, those will play plenty cool.
