Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring 2026 Menswear Collection

“I had the feeling that we would really need to get someone powerful like a shaman to come back to lead us to peace, love and fraternity.” This was the comment from Rei Kawakubo at a Comme Des Garçons show for a collection entitled Not Suits, But Suits. Totally appropriately, shaman wise, the room was as sticky as temazcal sweat lodge: “Sorry it’s hot, but it’s hot,” was the hot take of one CDG guru.

Into the fashion sauna came a first look that set the precedent for all to follow. It was a kind-of suit, in which you could see the architecture of the jacket and the shirt. There were pants. However these details were doubly overwhelmed by the sliced sectional structure of the jacket plus the intense top-to-toe pattern. The next not-suit, in a different pattern, was cut with a long jacket and prominently panniered hip sections.

As often, Kawakubo delivered her looks in grouped phases. The second section saw the tailored form deconstructed through zippers and ruffling, and presented mostly in black. There were extra exo-garments layered over some looks, shells from which they seemed to semi-emerge. A knitwear dominated section saw sweaters fashioned from spaced out sections or scarred with Fontana style slices.

Paler not-suits in light wool featured prosthetic extra collars in gray jersey and pleated pants and shorts. There was a section of classic Comme triple-layering: cropped jackets over ruffle hemmed shirting over kilts, in a densely woven polycotton drill. Sometimes, not-suits in plain material were overlaid with dresses or panniered waistcoats in the same intensely colored geometric patterns used at the start. A series of pieces in rainbow stripes repeated the bandage construction we’d seen before. Bicolor not-suits played purple against gray pinstripe, with zippered sections running down pant legs allowing the wearer to display pinstripe panels selectively.

The looks were all styled with mega and multi-brimmed baseball caps whose crowns were fashioned from suiting material.These were worn over waist long black braided wigs and black oxford shoes with lace-covers. There was humming, chanting, and guttural ululations on the soundtrack. The room was a furnace of concentration broken only by a frenzy of fanning. At the end the applause was loud before the crowd broke for the promise of cooler air outside on Rue Auber.