I Test-Drove J.Crew’s Workwear Label to See If It’s More Than Nostalgia Bait

About ten years ago my parents gave me a J.Crew gift card for my birthday. Instead of putting it toward a Ludlow suit or a New Balance collab, I dug a little deep and stumbled across what looked like the platonic ideal of a wool plaid flannel overshirt. Somehow, once it arrived, the shirt was even better than I’d hoped. The heft and craftsmanship of vintage Woolrich, but cut like something I’d get from downtown NYC. The label said “Wallace & Barnes.”

Now, after a hiatus, J.Crew’s once-beloved upscale workwear sub-label built from a mood board piled with heritage references has made its comeback. The original W&B line debuted in 2011, when Frank Muytjens was steering menswear and the mall brand was at its height. Muytjens and team worshiped at the altar of heritage workwear, and amassed an in-house archive. It was a big hit. But as the menswear trends sped ahead, the lights at J.Crew dimmed a bit, and Wallace & Barnes started feeling like an afterthought, a few random pieces tucked into the shadows.

Then last month, J.Crew announced it was officially relaunching Wallace & Barnes under Brendon Babenzien’s direction, and I practically clicked my chukka heels together in joy. He hasn’t strayed too far from Muytjens’ blue-collar blueprint: chambray shirts, sturdy workwear jackets, chinos built like they’re military-issued, and selvedge denim made in Japan.

Of course, it’s one thing to hook up the defibrillator and bring back a fan fave, but another to deliver on the promise. Especially when the price points rise, as they do with Wallace & Barnes. So, I test-drove three pieces from the relaunch lineup to see if they deliver on the promise: nicer materials, better craftsmanship, and pieces that feel additive to the already expansive J.Crew assortment.

One Jacket to Rule Them All

Toyota should watch its back, because apparently the menswear team at J.Crew can make one hell of a hybrid. This Wallace & Barnes piece smashes up a chore coat and a barn coat, adding the hefty cotton-canvas attitude of a Detroit jacket and the full lining of a Harrington. It sounds like a Frankenstein situation, but the execution is excellent. I’m a fan of the extra rivets reinforcing the pockets (it’s overbuilt in the right ways), and the double zipper gives you lots of layering and styling potential.

How I wore it: I went with a navy hoodie and a pair of light-wash jeans, since the jacket’s workwear-ish brown hue feels like a fall uniform. For shoes, I broke out my Paraboot Chambords—the underrated (and under-exposed) sibling to the Paraboot Michael (and it’s dupes) that you’ve seen all over your feed for years. The Chambords are cozy derbies with soft rubber soles. They’re comfy from the jump and won’t leave your heels blistered and battered.

The Heavyweight Hoodie

The Wallace & Barnes line takes its cues from vintage work and sportswear, and the hoodie is a prime example of how well its designers understand the assignment. This thing is hefty—I’d peg the cotton at somewhere between 14 and 16 ounces. You feel like you’re wearing something built to last. The exterior’s got a softly brushed finish, while the inside is lined with cozy fleece. It layers beautifully, but depending on your latitude and/or tolerance to cold, it could double as outerwear.