Salmon Sperm Facials: Do They Live Up To The Hype?

Shall we deal with the name first? The “salmon sperm” facial—celebrated for its hydrating, plumping, and all-round youth-ifying effects—is so called because it utilizes tiny fragments of DNA extracted from salmon sperm, also referred to, less queasily, as polynucleotides. Injected using a needle or a cannula, the formula’s moisture-binding properties have some major benefits for the complexion, chiefly boosting hydration levels for visibly dewier skin.

The treatment initially entered the beauty mainstream thanks to Kim Kardashian (who can also take “credit” for “normalizing” $2k full-body MRI scans and vampire facials), and more recently has been revealed as a go-to technique for Jennifer Aniston and Charli xcx. Still, susceptible as I am to a celebrity endorsement, it was hearing from Vogue’s own global beauty and wellness director, Jessica Diner—who told me in passing that she swears by salmon sperm above all else—that persuaded me to investigate further.

The Botox and filler route has never really appealed to me (never say never, obviously), but this treatment felt, to me at least, like a more acceptable entry point into the world of aesthetics. Perhaps because, while it does involve a needle, it’s a natural rather than manmade substance being injected into your dermis. And when the always glowy Jess offered to hook me up with Clinic Dr Dray in South Ken if I’d write about it, the temptation to let the expert team loose on my fine lines swiftly outweighed any lingering judginess.

“The salmon DNA treatment is suitable for all skin types, and for anyone looking to improve their skin’s quality,” says (the ultra-French and ultra-charming) Dr Benjamin, whom I see for my initial consultation. He tells me it’s great for patients with dry and dehydrated skin—music to my ears—as well as those struggling with the after-effects of sun damage or uneven tone. It can even help with chronic skin conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis, he explains.

I tell him I’ve heard polynucleotides can cause bruising, but Dr Benjamin reassures me the clinic’s method, using a cannula on just four points of the face rather than tiny needles all over, means there is scarcely any downtime from the treatment. Numbing cream is applied to my face, and after around 15 minutes, Dr Benjamin administers the magic substance in a spot beneath each eye, towards the top of the cheekbone, and then again at two points on either side of my mouth.