Whale season brings humpbacks within sight of Sydney’s beaches

Not far from the beaches of Sydney, something remarkable happens each winter: From May to November, tens of thousands of humpback whales pass right by the city as they migrate along Australia’s east coast.

The whales travel thousands of kilometres from Antarctic waters to give birth and mate in warmer seas farther north. From August, many begin the return journey — including mothers with their young calves.

“They come really close to shore,” says Olaf Meynecke, whale researcher from the Whales and Climate Program at Griffith University. “You can literally sit on the beach and watch the whales from there. You don’t necessarily need to be on a boat.”

Still, many visitors opt for boat tours to get an even closer look. Boats leave several times a day from Circular Quay and Darling Harbour, offering two-and-a-half-hour trips for $55 to $90. Most tours spot whales — and if not, many operators offer a second trip free of charge.

Every whale tour is different

On a recent tour that I took, all 20 people on board raised their phones up in the air, waiting for something to happen. And it did. A whale bigger than the boat leapt out of the water, just metres away, showing its entire body for a brief moment.

Right away, a second whale joined in, leaving everyone confused as to where to look. The only sounds on the boat were collective “oohs” and “ahhs,” which easily drowned out the audio on all videos being recorded.

Moments like these are not uncommon during whale season — but unpredictable.

“There are days when we see lots of whales, but they might be resting,” says Mette Lubczyk, whale guide with Whale Tales Whale Watching in Sydney. “And then there are days when a single whale puts on an unforgettable show. You really never know what you’re going to get.”

Photographer Ted Lamb, who works with Whale Watching Sydney, recalls one of those unpredictable days: “The other day, we didn’t see any whales on the first trip, which was super unfortunate and very, very rare. But in the afternoon, we saw five of them steaming along, and one of them out of nowhere came close to the boat and breached right next to us.”

The best time to spot both mothers and their calves is from Mid-August to November. Because the calves need to rest often, the pace is slower — and the whales tend to stay closer to the coast.
But it’s not just about counting how many whales you see. For some, the experience can be deeply emotional.

“Being near whales touches people in ways they don’t expect. I’ve had guests squeeze my hand and start crying,” says Lubczyk, adding that many are surprised by their own emotions.

A few tricks to keep seasickness at bay

Of course, not every part of the experience is smooth sailing. Motion sickness can be an issue on choppy days. Guides recommend eating light, taking travel sickness pills and keeping your eyes on the horizon instead of your phone.

“But honestly,” Lamb says, “when the whales show up, most people forget their seasickness.”

For whale seekers who prefer to stay on solid ground, coastal lookouts such as the Bondi to Coogee walk, North Head, or Cape Solander in Sydney’s south offer great vantage points for spotting whales close to shore. Olaf Meynecke also recommends several other spots along Australia’s east coast for whale watching, including Eden, Jervis Bay, Coffs Harbour, Byron Bay and Hervey Bay.

And if you’ve managed to spot a whale, you might not want to look away too quickly: “Whales are social animals and rarely travel alone,” says Meynecke. “If you spot one, chances are there’s another not far behind.”