In ‘Marty Supreme,’ a Lowkey Vintage Watch Ticks Through the Chaos

Reisman himself once smuggled a clutch of pricey watches home to the US, entering New York—as Sports Illustrated put it in 1977—“wearing two dozen Rolex watches under his Bolero sleeves.” Marty’s Elgin, however, is much less glitzy.

“It is from, I believe, either 1949 or 1950,” says Michael Jortner, Marty Supreme’s property master. The mid-century Elgin is a tonneau model on a brown leather strap, with a manually wound movement, 10K gold-filled case, and scalloped sides. The dial comprises Breguet-style numerals, a squared-off seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and the DuraPower sigil—which first appeared on Elgin watches in 1946—below the watchmaker’s wordmark. It may not have star quality, but Jortner says the watch was key to unlocking both character and story.

It comes into its own during the second-act hustle, after Mauser returns to New York and barrels through scrappy, small-stakes schemes to raise cash. Whether it’s a botched dognapping or a bowling alley betting scam, the story demands drive, pressure, and stakes–all of which are buckled to Mauser’s quick-flicking wrist in the form of his watch.

The watch is also a neat nod to his slippery character. Duplicitous people don’t wear timepieces that demand inspection; they wear symbols that deflect it, respectable enough not to raise suspicion, but not important enough to be scrutinized. For that subtle balance, Jortner turned to Elgin.

“Normally, I start building an inventory of wristwatches for a project while keeping individual characters in mind,” he says. “They’re based on time period, tone, and storyline, combined with the vibe, personality, and social and economic status of each character.”

With Marty Supreme following a cash-strapped Mauser trying to raise funds for various international flights, his more modest watch makes sense for the story. Yet for the prop team, Chalamet’s character began with the glasses. They put more than 60 pairs in front of Safdie, Chalamet, and costume designer Miyako Bellizzi to identify the perfect frame shape and lens angle. There were slightly fewer watches in the mix.

“I started with a selection of around 15,” says Jortner, “which I presented to Josh, Timmy, and Miyako at an early costume fitting. It was a big part of completing the look, and this watch suits Timmy’s character very well.”