American Sunscreen Is About to Get So Much Better
Ask any dermatologist to name their one non-negotiable skincare product and the answer is almost always the same: sunscreen. The problem? Most Americans still don’t use it consistently.
According to some reports, a mere third of adults in the United States routinely apply sunscreen, and women are almost twice as likely to do so compared to men. Knowledge gaps around sun safety are likely one culprit. But outdated, chalky formulas may also be to blame. There may finally be hope on the formula front, as the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recently proposed adding bemotrizinol (aka Tinosorb S, or BEMT) as a permitted active ingredient for use in sunscreens.
Here’s why it’s a big deal for consumers, derms, and the American sunscreen market alike.
What is bemotrizinol?
Bemotrizinol is a chemical filter that provides broad-spectrum protection, meaning it shields against both UVA and UVB rays. (The former is associated with skin aging and long-term skin cancer risk, while the latter is responsible for sunburn.) The ingredient has long been a staple in sunscreens across Europe, South Korea, and Japan—some of the world’s biggest beauty and grooming markets—and for good reason.
“From initial research, it appears to be a stable sunscreen filter, meaning it has less of a chance of degrading when exposed to UVA and UVB rays,” says Corey L. Hartman, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. “It is also better-tolerated than other chemical UV filters that can cause irritation, especially on sensitive skin or for patients with inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or rosacea.”
Due to its high molecular weight, it has low potential for skin penetration. Meaning, based on available data, it’s unlikely to be absorbed into the bloodstream like some other chemical UV filters, says Whitney Hovenic, MD, double board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in Reno, Nevada, and co-founder of sunscreen brand SPOOGE. (This concern is another barrier to regular sunscreen use—namely for those who prioritize “clean” routines and keep fears of absorption at top of mind over the proven risks of unprotected sun exposure like burns, premature aging, and skin cancer.)
Dr. Hovenic adds that bemotrizinol has a long track record of use internationally. But despite widespread use overseas and rigorous testing, personal care manufacturers (namely DSM Nutritional Products, based in Europe) and nonprofit organizations (including the Environmental Working Group) have urged the FDA to approve the ingredient for nearly two decades in the U.S. without any success.
Why its approval would be a big deal
Since the U.S. FDA classifies sunscreen as a drug rather than a cosmetic, our sunscreen market is limited compared to overseas competitors. It takes more time, research, and red tape for sunscreen filters to gain stateside approval, leading us to fall behind in terms of no-muss, no-fuss formulas that hold up to the elements and blend well into the skin.
“The FDA hasn’t approved a new sunscreen in decades, which has caused the U.S. to lag behind in sunscreen innovation,” says Dr. Hartman. While the last decade or so has seen some improvements with the ingredients we have to work with, bemotrizinol could encourage more widespread use of sunscreen.
“Bemotrizinol provides strong, photostable broad-spectrum protection, especially against UVA rays, while enabling lighter, cosmetically elegant formulas,” says Dr. Hovenic. “From a dermatologist’s perspective, this matters because sunscreens people enjoy using are the ones they’re more likely to apply consistently and reapply as needed.” She adds that it pairs well with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide: two mineral-based sunscreen filters that form a physical barrier to block UV rays (versus chemical filters, which convert rays to heat and release them from the skin). Research also shows that bemotrizinol significantly stabilizes UVA filters like avobenzone and helps them last longer.
